FABRICS AND FIBERS

Understanding fabrics is as important as understanding your sewing equipment or methods of

construction.On the following pages we are going to explain what fabric are,where they come

from and how to select and use them.First we need to define the term fabric: in general usage it

means a man-made material which is produced from fibres that are twisted, looped, interlaced,

bonded, compressed or joined together in a way that allows the natural strength, flexibility, elasticity and other innate characteristics of the fibres to be used to best advantage. Many types

of commercial fabrics are produced from fibres coming from many sources-animal, vegetable, mineral and chemical, but they generally fall into two main categories: those produced from natural fibers—cotton, Linen, Silk and Wool—and the man-made chemically produced fibers—Rayon, Orlon, Terylene, Nylon, etc. The properties of these fibers vary enormously but with the fibers vary enormously but with the widly differing end uses for fabrics in the modern world, even the most adaptable cannot be considered entirely suitable for all purposes. This is why, although natural fibers are extremely versatile and prossess many excellent qualities, man-made fibers have been introduced. The fabric manufacturer thus has a wider choice of fibre, and the consumer a wider choice of fabric. In some respects the borderline natural and man-made fabres is becoming less clearly defined, since many finishes are now applied to fabrics made from natural fibers, which increases their versatility. Resin treatment, for example, can give crease resistant properties to cotton fabrics, or shrink resistance to wool. In general it should be remembered that man-made fibers do not replace natural fibers; they complement them.

 

 Fabric Terms:

These are the generally accepted meaning though not necessarily the scientific definitions.

Alpaca.  A very fine but costly fabric with a highly lustrous smooth surface. Bedford Cord.

Bedford Cord.  A woollen or wollen type fabric which incorporates a rounded rib or cord.

Bias.   Aterm used when cutting fabric diagonally between the true straight and cross- grains.

Bonded.  Two fabrics that are sealed together back to back with a bonding agent. This term is also used for non- woven fabric bressed together with a special bonding substance to hold the fibres in place.

Boucle. A fabric which has looped or knotted yarns to give a curly look to the surface.

Braid.   A narrow tape or woven strip used for binding or ornamenting fabrics.

Brushed. Fabric with a suede-like finish with the surfaces fibres brushed in one direction.

Chiffon. A plain sheer delicate fabric woven from chenille yarns giving a novelty ribbed appearance.

Coarse. Fabrics in this group are generally made of very thick uneven yarns giving a home -spun unfinished appearance.

Cotton. A name for a vegetarian fibre produced from the cotton seed pod which is used for many fabrics.

Crepe. A fabric with a crinkled or grainy surface formed by weaving various combinations of highly twisted yarns together.The surface textures range from a fine flat grain to a pebbly  or bark like appearance.

Crinoline. An open-weave interling filled with sizing.Used for stiffing.

Crochet. A hand made lace-like fabric made with a special hook and a single thread.

Denim. A twilled fabric usually made from cotton which is very tough and washable.

 

Duck. A heavy cotton fabric with a slightly ribbed weave which is very tough and washable.

Embroidered. Any fabric which has decorative needlework designs applied by hand and machine.

Felt. A non-woven fabric that is made of fibers of wool and fur, held together by a combination of heat, moisture and pressure.

Flannel. A slightly napped wollen fabric with a plain or twill weave.

Flocked. A printed fabric using stuck-on coioured fibres instead of pigment to give a raised flocked design.

Foulard. A soft silk or rayon fabric will a twill weave.

Georgette. Afine crepe-like fabric made of silk, wool or man-made fibers.

Gingham. Acotton fabric in colourful stripes, plaids or checks.

Gulpure. Aheavy open-worked cotton lace.

Hessian.  A fabric of strong coarce hemp or jute yarns generaly used as a packing material.

Interlinings. Any fabric used in main fabric and the facing to give a crisper finish to an article.

Jap silk. A fine plain weave silk fabric.

Lace. A general term applied to a hand- or machine- made open-work fabric consisting of a web of threads intricately worked into a design.

Lame. A metalic thread which is incorporated into many types of fabric to give it a gold or silver sparkle and glitter.