BG, Window valance

इन्द्रियाणि पराण्याहुरिन्द्रियेभ्य: परं मन: |
मनसस्तु परा बुद्धिर्यो बुद्धे: परतस्तु स: || 42||

BG 3.42: The senses are superior to the gross body, and superior to the senses is the mind. Beyond the mind is the intellect, and even beyond the intellect is the soul.

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I found this design from net .......years back  I am posting it here to crochet in near future 

window valance

Window Valance, Tiebacks and

Curtain Edging

Materials

Oswal yarn (It takes about one 50 gram ball of Oswal yarn) to crochet each 12" of the valance. To figure the amount of yarn needed for the valance,

multiply the width of your window (in inches) by 1.5 or 2, depending on the fullness desired, to determine your final

width. Divide the final width by 12 to determine the number of 50 gram balls needed.) Add 1 more 50 gram ball for coordinating tiebacks and curtain edging.

Crochet hook size F

Alternate yarn: You can use 2 strands of size 10 cotton thread held together.

Two 5/8" curtain rings for each tieback.

Gauge: Not important for this project, but if your stitches look too loose, try a size E

hook

Finished size of valance: As pictured, overall length = about 10", length below rod

pocket=about 8", Length is easily adjusted by adding or subtracting rows. The

width of the valance is worked to fit your window and is determined by the length of

the foundation row.

Finished size of tiebacks: As pictured, about 16" long overall x 1 1/4" wide

Finished size of edging: About 1" wide x any length

Valance

Foundation row: *Ch 4, dc in the 4th ch from hook* Repeat from * to * an even

number of times (so that you have an odd number total) until the length of the

foundation row is equal to 1 ½ - 2 times the width of your window; ch 2, turn.

(Pattern note: The "ch 2" at the end of the rows does not count as the first dc of the

next row.)

Row 1: (Front) Work 5 dc in the first ch-4 space, sc in the next ch-4 sp, (7 dc in the

next ch-4 sp, sc in the next ch-4 sp) across, ending with 5 dc in the last ch-4 sp; ch 1,turn.

Row 2: Sc in the first dc, ch 3, skip next dc, sc in the next dc, *ch 4, skip next (2 dc,

sc, 2 dc), sc in the next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, dc in the next dc* Repeat from * to *

across; ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Work 5 dc in the first ch-3 space, sc in the next ch-4 sp, (7 dc in the next ch-3 sp, sc in the next ch-4 sp) across, ending with 5 dc in the last ch-3 sp; ch 1, turn.

Rows 4-23: (Repeat rows 2 & 3) 10 times for and 8" length below the curtain rod.

Add or subtract rows to adjust to the desired length. Fasten off after the last row.

Rod pocket

Row 1: With the wrong side facing you, join yarn with a sc around the post of the

first dc of the foundation row, work one more sc around the same dc, (2 sc around

the post of the next dc in the foundation row) across; ch 4, turn.

Pattern note: The rod pocket in this pattern accommodates a small-diameter rod. If

you need a bigger rod pocket, substitute (ch 5's and dtrc's) or (ch 6's and ttrc's) for

the ch 4's and trc's in row 2 (front and back.)

Row 2: (front of rod pocket) Trc in the front loop only of the first sc, trc in the front

loop only of each remaining sc across, ch 4, sl st in the front loop only of the same sc

in which the last trc was worked; turn.

Row 2: (back of rod pocket) Sl st in the unworked loop of the first sc on row 1, ch 4,

trc in the same st, trc in the unworked loop only of each remaining sc in row 1 to

within the last sc, 2 trc in the unworked loop of the last sc; ch 1, turn.

Row 3: (crocheting front and back of rod pocket together) Insert hook into the 4th

ch of the turning ch on the front of the rod pocket and into the first trc on the back

of the rod pocket and pull up a loop, yo and pull through both remaining loops on

hook; (insert hook into the next trc on the front of the rod pocket and into the next

trc on the back of the rod pocket and pull up a loop, yo and pull through both

remaining loops on hook) across; do not sc together the turning chains at the end of

the row; ch 1, turn. (You should have an odd number of sc.)

Row 4: Sc in the first sc, (ch 3, skip next sc, sc in the next sc) across; ch 2, turn.

Row 5: Work 5 dc in the first ch-3 sp, (sc in the next ch-3 sp, 5 dc in the next ch-3

sp) across; ch 2, sl st in the last sc. Fasten off.

Tiebacks

Foundation row: *Ch 4, dc in the 4th ch from hook* Repeat from * to * 20 times or

an even number of times (so that you have an odd number total) until the length

desired for each tieback; ch 2, turn.

Round 1: Work 7 dc in the first ch-4 space, sc in the next ch-4 sp, (7 dc in the next

ch-4 sp, sc in the next ch-4 sp) across, 7 dc in the last ch-4 sp, 15 sc in one of the

curtain rings, sl st in the first sc on the  curtain ring; continuing around the other side of the tieback, (work 7 dc around the post of the next dc on the foundation row, sc around the post of the next dc on the foundation row) across, ending with 7 dc

around the post of the last dc on the foundation row, 15 sc in the other of the lucite

rings, sl st in the first sc on the curtain ring; join with a sl st in the top of the first dc.

Fasten off.

Curtain edging (to be sewn to the hemline of a cloth curtain or sheer)

Foundation row: *Ch 4, dc in the 4th ch from hook* Repeat from * to * an even

number of times (so that you have an odd number total) until the length of the

foundation row is equal to the width

Bread Box 

I'm in need of this let see when will the order be placed and i will got it or not?

The Gnam bread bin from Alessi is made from thermoplastic resin and comes in black, white and orange. (Amazon.com doesn’t have the orange version.)

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